RabbitMart Rabbit Supply Weblog

Things that Rabbits Don’t Do – RabbitMart Funnies

admin — Wed, 09 May 2012 16:01:06 +0000

The Basic Essentials of Rabbit Diet

admin — Sat, 21 Apr 2012 02:15:13 +0000

So what makes a good, healthy rabbit diet? Most rabbit owners are familiar with this. Here are some details for reference and a primer for new owners.

A good diet is made up of fresh hay, pellets, vegetables and water. How much is dependant on the rabbits age.

Hay: Hay is important for roughage. It helps prevent hairballs, promotes normal digestion, prevents diarrhea and helps with mitigating teeth growth. Hay needs to be fresh so don’t keep extra over long periods. Also, store in an open (not air tight) container and check for mold. Some of the popular hays include timothy hay, grass hay and alfalfa. They should be provided at all times and not limited in quantity. However, alfalfa is rich and should be given to rabbits younger than 7 months or underweight rabbits if calcium levels are normal.

Pellets: Pellets can be given in unlimited quantities to young rabbits under 7 months. For 7 months to a year about 1/2 cup for 6 pounds of body weight is recommended. Above one year reduce to 1/8 – 1/4 cup per 6 pounds of body weight. You will need to adjust depending on metabolism and comparative amount of vegetable feed. Like hay, pellets need to be fresh. Don’t store pellets for more than 6 weeks. Look for pellets about 3% or less fat, 14 – 16% protein to control weight, and 18% or so fiber. This is a rough guideline so don’t stress if your rabbits diet is not exactly this. It should be close to this range, though.

Vegetables: About one cup of veggies a day is recommended. Introduce different types slowly (as with any diet change) to prevent diarrhea. Under 7 months but above 12 weeks no more than 1/2 oz to introduce these foods. 7 months to 1 year slowly increase the amount so that greater than 1 year this is at least 1.5 cups per 6 pounds of body weight. A partial list of rabbit friendly vegetables are:

Alfalfa, radish & clover sprouts
Basil
Beet greens (tops)
Bok choy
Broccoli (mostly leaves/stems; limit, can cause gas)
Brussels sprouts
Carrot & carrot tops
Celery
Cilantro
Clover
Collard greens
Dandelion greens and flowers (no pesticides)
Endive
Escarole
Green peppers
Kale (limit)
Marigold
Mint
Mustard greens
Parsley
Pea pods (the flat edible kind)
Peppermint leaves
Radicchio
Radish tops
Raspberry leaves
Red Leaf lettuce
Romaine lettuce (no iceberg or light colored leaf)
Spinach
Watercress
Wheat grass

Treats: Treats should be given small quantities to prevent obesity. Fruits in small amounts are acceptable (1 tbsp per 6 pounds of body weight). Sugary fruits should be given only sparingly as rabbits have a sweet tooth and may exclude more healthy food choices if allowed. A list of possible snacks are:

Apple
Blueberries
Melon
Orange (remove the peel)
Papaya
Peach
Pear
Pineapple
Plums
Raspberries
Strawberries

Lagomorph must read …

admin — Mon, 16 Apr 2012 23:12:27 +0000

By the way, a lagomorph is a hare, pika or rabbit. Definition: Lagomorphs are the members of the taxonomic order Lagomorpha, of which there are two living families, the Leporidae (hares and rabbits) and the Ochotonidae (pikas). A Pika is a small mammal related to a rabbit, having rounded ears, short limbs, and a very small tail.

Whether you’re a first-time rabbit owner or a veteran bunny slave—or even just contemplating adding a lagomorph to your family—A House Rabbit Primer is an absolute must-read.

With easy-to-understand, relevant information; insight gained from personal experience; dozens of photos; and step-by-step instructions on everything from how to properly house and feed your bunny to litter-box training to finding the right vet to socializing your bun and beyond, this book will become your single, most-powerful reference tool to help you successfully and happily live with your house rabbit.

All aspects of rabbit care for both new and experienced pet rabbit owners are discussed in this handbook. Detailed information on how to house, feed, and train rabbits is provided, with a comprehensive medical section on creating a first aid kit, diagnosing different rabbit diseases, and giving emergency care.

Rabbits make up one of the fastest-growing segments of the pet population, and with more pet owners choosing to keep their rabbits indoors full time, this guide lays out practical information for making rabbits a healthy part of any family.

CLICK HERE

A House Rabbit Primer by Moore, Lucile C. Edition ILL

Have a wonderful Easter from all the Rabbits at RabbitMart.com

admin — Mon, 09 Apr 2012 00:09:56 +0000

Well, there really are no rabbit workers here – but Easter is a special time at RabbitMart. We want to wish all of our wonderful patrons and their Buns a wonderful Easter with tons of carrots and Timothy Hay!

Happy Easter from the RabbitMart.com staff!

The Rarity of an Orphaned Bunny and How to Help

admin — Sun, 18 Mar 2012 15:58:21 +0000

Many well-meaning people have seen a nest of bunnies without their mom and assumed that it was abandoned. But mother rabbits do not stay by the nest all day like other species and it is best if you do not disturb the nest! Another mistake that is often made by us humans, is that the mother isn’t feeding her babies enough.

Rabbits are not like human babies and the milk is not like human milk. It is much richer and baby rabbits are usually fed once per day (usually during the hours of midnight and 5 am). Making the assumption that the mother isn’t feeding her youngsters is usually incorrect.

In the rare situation that you truly have an orphaned bunny you may try feeding with Kitten Milk Replacer (KMR) pictured to the right. Remember to feed ONLY TWICE A DAY at the most. Overfeeding is a leading cause of death in these baby rabbits. Overfeeding causes fatal intestinal disease.

Avoid using Esbilac or any puppy formulas or cow’s milk. Do not add Karo syrup.
FEED TWICE A DAY ONLY – the guidelines below are maxiums.

Newborn to One Week: 2 – 2+1/2 cc/ml each feeding (two feedings).

1-2 weeks: 5-7 cc/ml each feeding (two feedings).

2-3 weeks: 7-13 cc/ml each feeding (two feedings).

Train Your Rabbit to Use a Harness

admin — Tue, 13 Mar 2012 21:35:00 +0000

Making sure that your rabbit gets enough exercise can be difficult if your rabbit stays in his cage all day long and does not spend a lot of time running free.

A great way to allow your rabbit to get some exercise and spend some quality time bonding with you is to take your rabbit for a walk. Walking with your rabbit can be a fun experience for both you and your rabbit if you have the right equipment. A rabbit harness, like the Peters Rabbit Walking Jacket, is essential for walking your rabbit and is designed not to choke him when walking.

Getting your rabbit comfortable with the harness should be done in stages and in the comfort and safety of your own home:

Choose a harness that will fit your rabbit comfortably. The Walk-N-Vest Leash is great for variety of rabbits and is available in four different sizes.
It is best to familiarize your rabbit with the harness first. Allow your rabbit to sniff the harness and check it out. If your rabbit thinks the harness is a toy, allow him to play with it as long as he doesn’t chew it.
Once your rabbit has had a chance to check the harness out and realize that it is harmless, place the harness on his back to allow him to get comfortable with the harness on. It is a good idea not to buckle the harness at this point.
If he appears to be comfortable with the harness on his back, buckle the harness and allow your rabbit to move around in it. If your harness has a leash attached to the harness, don’t pick up or hold the leash yet. Just allow your rabbit to get comfortable moving around with the harness on.
After your rabbit has had a few minutes to adjust to wearing the harness, attach the leash or pick up the leash if it is attached to the harness. Walk your rabbit around the house first, to get him comfortable to the idea. Let your rabbit guide you around your house.
Next, take your rabbit outside for a short walk around the yard. Gradually increase the area for your walk. It is a good idea to keep your rabbit to a confined area where other animals do not have access.
Remember that rabbits can scare easily, so if your rabbit seems afraid or is not wanting to walk, pick up your rabbit and take him inside to take the harness off and start over at another time. Always walk your rabbit in an area that is safe for your rabbit.

Clicker Training for your Rabbit? Yes Sir!

admin — Mon, 05 Mar 2012 01:37:17 +0000

Rooted in behavior modification, clicker training is about rewarding behavior. If a behavior has a good result, your rabbit will do it again. With a clicker, and rewards, you can train your bunnies to do anything of which they are physically able.

The StarMark Clicker Pet Training Aid (pictured to the right) helps you reinforce positive behaviors in your rabbit.

The clicker comes with a training guide so you can get started quickly.

The Clicker uses scientific principles of classical and operant conditioning to help you train your pet. Traditionally popular in dog training, clicker training is becoming more and more prevalent in training cats and rabbits, as well as birds. The clicker assists you in shaping and rewarding positive behavior. The ergonomic design of the StarMark keeps your hand comfortable while training.

Start before a meal with a dozen or so bunny-bite sized treats. Rabbit pellets can work as well as can bite-sized pieces of vegetables. Feed one treat and as they chew, click once. When they stop chewing, feed another bite and click. Feed and click until the treats are gone. Stop.

Bunny links the sound of the click to food. As you train, the response becomes stronger!

Use a Hay Rack to Save Money & for Better Rabbit Health

admin — Tue, 28 Feb 2012 00:00:11 +0000

It is important to add a hay rack or food shifter in your rabbit’s hutch or cage because it helps to keep the hay and food off of the floor and helps to prevent it from being contaminated by waste and your rabbit from becoming sick.

Choosing the right type of hay rack or food shifter for your rabbit is important, since there are a variety of feeders available to hold food, hay, pellets or a combination.

If you plan on using a hay rack to provide just hay, then choose a simple one made of wire. The Hay Feeder with Free Salt Lick is ideal for hanging in a cage or hutch. This wire hay rack is very easy to hang up and holds only hay. Your rabbit’s hay stays contained in the hay rack and will not come in contact with waste.

If your rabbit enjoys loose hay and pellets, then you may want to consider a hay rack that can dispense both. The Chew Proof Hay and Pellet Combo Feeder keeps hay and pellets off of the floor and healthier for your rabbit. This hay rack is designed for use in a wire cage and helps prevent food from being wasted.

If you are going to use the feeder for food only, then a food shifter is a great option for your rabbit’s cage or home. The Little Giant Self Feeder is perfect for dispensing food or pellets. This food shifter keeps the food safe from contaminates and decreases the amount of waste.

Whatever type of feeder you choose, it is important to install one in your rabbit’s hutch or cage. Hay and food shifters keep the hay and food fresher and cleaner and help to save you money!

How to Exercise Your Pet Rabbit

admin — Mon, 20 Feb 2012 19:00:00 +0000

Is your pet rabbit

bored?
overweight?
has no energy?

If your rabbit is caged in all day, he or she may need to get out and get some fresh air and exercise. Rabbits love attention from their owners and can get lonely in a cage all day, so daily time spent outdoors is very beneficial for their physical and mental well-being.

One easy and economical way for your pet rabbit to get some exercise and spend quality time with you is take your rabbit for a walk. A rabbit leash is very useful when taking your rabbit for a stroll and your rabbit will love the change of scenery.

A comfortable walking leash for rabbits is the Peters Rabbit Walking Jacket. This cute little jacket is easy to put on your rabbit, easy to care for and gives you the freedom to take your pet for a walk.

If you pet rabbit does like to walk with a leash, another way for your pet rabbit to get some exercise and fresh air is in an outdoor exercise pen. An outdoor pen is easy to set-up in the grass and allows your rabbit to enjoy nature and fresh air. Your rabbit will be able to walk in the grass, nibble on a plant or bask in the sun. Toss in some of your rabbitï¿½s favorite toys or treats to get your rabbit hopping.

Every rabbit owner should make sure that their pet rabbit gets exercise and gets to spend some quality time outdoors. Taking your pet rabbit for a walk is easy and economical. If your rabbit doesn’t like walking on a leash, choose an outdoor pen for him or her to hop around in. It is important to spend time exercising your rabbit for their mental and physical health.

Check out these great items and more at Rabbit Mart.

Understanding Your Rabbits Behavior

admin — Sat, 11 Feb 2012 21:49:00 +0000

Your rabbit’s behavior can seem to be a mystery and understanding it is essential for keeping your rabbit healthy and happy.

Rabbits are very social animals and enjoy spending time with their care-givers. By recognizing your rabbit’s expressions, you can make the most of the time spent with your rabbit. Here are some common rabbit expressions to help you understand your rabbit’s behavior:

Binkies: If a rabbit is very happy, he or she will jump into the air to let you know. This jump is called a binky.
Dancing: Dancing occurs when a rabbit shakes and jumps. This expression helps your rabbit to express affection and love.
Periscoping or Climbing: Rabbit will stand on their hind legs (similar to a periscope) in order to gain height to view their surrounding area. It is also for this reason that rabbits like to climb on things.
Grunting: When a rabbit grunts, it means that he or she is trying to express their feelings to you. It could also mean that he or she is about to attack.
Squealing: This occurs when a rabbit is afraid or in pain.
Thumping: Rabbits will “thump” one or both hind legs if they sense that danger is imminent or when they are surprised.
Tiptoeing: Rabbits “tiptoe” when they are being cautious. If they come across something that they are unsure about, they will tiptoe over to it.
Flat: Rabbits become flat to the ground when they are afraid. This pose shows that the rabbit is timid and scared.
Chin Rubbing: Rabbits will rub their chins on objects and people when they are trying to mark their territory because their scent glands are under their chins. The scent cannot be smelled by humans.
Nipping: Rabbits nip for a variety of reasons including: to display affection, to get affection, for self defense, to attack, and more.

To find out more about your rabbit’s behavior, be sure to join RabbitMart on facebook! http://www.facebook.com/RabbitMart